- Messages
- 656
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- 71
- City
- socal.
- State
- CA
- Country
- United States
- What I Drive
- 2015 s3
2015 s3 sedan
100k miles.
i just recently had to replace the water pump and thermostat housing again. i decided to just replace them both at the same time. as usual i also replace all supporting parts like the mini belt and bolts.
after the fix i still had oil mixture in the coolant system. i can see it in the reservoir bottle. i believe its the issue is in the oil cooler. thats a common issue. that and the gaskets that supports it will tend to fail at this mileage.
just waiting on one of the gasket that mates the bracket to the block.
i will say that taking off the oil cooler is a pain since we have to take off the bracket that holds it in to the block. the 4 bolts that attaches the cooler to the bracket has 2 rear bolts thats hidden and can not be reached without removal of the bracket. the bracket cant be removed with out removing the alternator and a/c compressor. fun times.
fyi, when you do this, it a good idea to initialize the thermostat. if you dont, the thermostat will default with the opening at a higher temp. i didnt do it orignally and noticed my temps are higher but now the temps are a little lower and i can see the temps fluctuate. which is good, it means that the thermostat gate is opening and closing for the right temp.
i did it at 2 different engine temps. i dont know if it really matters but i would recommend doing it in the morning when you have not started up the car at all. dead cold. it seems to have the cold as the zero point.
this is how to initialize the thermostat after installing a brand new unit or if you want to just make sure yours was initialized from the last person who installed it. it doesnt hurt the system. it just zero out the temp starting point and resets the flaps.
i used vcds but im sure you can use other systems like obd11.
after you do this and have a digital aftermarket gauge for the water temp, you will notice that it doesnt stay on the highest temp that long and it wont let the water stay cold that long either. its stable at where the effective temp should be at.
i have never heard any service tech mentioning doing this afterwards before so you should test it out for this summer.
using vcds rosstech:
01 engine
basic settings
05231 - engine temp control actuator
go
*after the sound of the flaps stop wait another 2-4 seconds.
stop
done.
100k miles.
i just recently had to replace the water pump and thermostat housing again. i decided to just replace them both at the same time. as usual i also replace all supporting parts like the mini belt and bolts.
after the fix i still had oil mixture in the coolant system. i can see it in the reservoir bottle. i believe its the issue is in the oil cooler. thats a common issue. that and the gaskets that supports it will tend to fail at this mileage.
just waiting on one of the gasket that mates the bracket to the block.
i will say that taking off the oil cooler is a pain since we have to take off the bracket that holds it in to the block. the 4 bolts that attaches the cooler to the bracket has 2 rear bolts thats hidden and can not be reached without removal of the bracket. the bracket cant be removed with out removing the alternator and a/c compressor. fun times.
fyi, when you do this, it a good idea to initialize the thermostat. if you dont, the thermostat will default with the opening at a higher temp. i didnt do it orignally and noticed my temps are higher but now the temps are a little lower and i can see the temps fluctuate. which is good, it means that the thermostat gate is opening and closing for the right temp.
i did it at 2 different engine temps. i dont know if it really matters but i would recommend doing it in the morning when you have not started up the car at all. dead cold. it seems to have the cold as the zero point.
this is how to initialize the thermostat after installing a brand new unit or if you want to just make sure yours was initialized from the last person who installed it. it doesnt hurt the system. it just zero out the temp starting point and resets the flaps.
i used vcds but im sure you can use other systems like obd11.
after you do this and have a digital aftermarket gauge for the water temp, you will notice that it doesnt stay on the highest temp that long and it wont let the water stay cold that long either. its stable at where the effective temp should be at.
i have never heard any service tech mentioning doing this afterwards before so you should test it out for this summer.
using vcds rosstech:
01 engine
basic settings
05231 - engine temp control actuator
go
*after the sound of the flaps stop wait another 2-4 seconds.
stop
done.
Last edited:
